Deciding whether you should dermaplane before or after facial appointments is one of those things that seems simple until you're actually sitting in the aesthetician's chair trying to make a plan. If you've ever looked in the mirror and felt like your skin looks a bit dull or your makeup just isn't sitting right because of that fine peach fuzz, you've probably considered both. But doing them in the wrong order can actually leave your skin more irritated than glowy, which is the exact opposite of what we're going for.
Generally speaking, the gold standard for most skincare pros is to dermaplane before the facial portion of your treatment. Think of it like prepping a canvas before you start painting; if you want the "paint" (your serums, masks, and moisturizers) to actually sink in and do their job, you have to get the debris out of the way first.
Why the order actually matters
Let's be real—facials can be expensive. When you're dropping a decent amount of money on high-end products and professional techniques, you want every single drop of those active ingredients to penetrate your skin. If you have a layer of dead skin cells and fine vellus hair (that's the scientific name for peach fuzz) sitting on the surface, they act like a literal barrier.
When you choose to dermaplane before the rest of your facial, you're essentially clearing the road. The blade gently scrapes away that top layer of "gunk" that builds up over weeks. Once that's gone, your skin is significantly more receptive. When your aesthetician applies a hydrating mask or a vitamin C serum right after dermaplaning, those products don't have to fight through a layer of dead skin to get to the fresh cells underneath. They sink in deeper, work faster, and give you that "glass skin" look everyone is chasing.
The benefits of the "before" approach
There are a few specific reasons why doing the dermaplaning first is the way to go. First off, it makes the physical extraction process—if your facial includes that—a lot easier. Without the hair and dead skin in the way, your pores are more accessible.
Second, it's all about the exfoliation levels. Most facials involve some kind of exfoliation, whether it's a light enzyme peel or a scrub. Dermaplaning is a form of physical exfoliation. By doing it first, the aesthetician can gauge exactly how sensitive your skin is before moving on to chemical steps. They might realize your skin is a bit more reactive than usual and decide to use a milder serum afterward so they don't overdo it.
Boosting your product absorption
I can't stress this enough: the glow you get after a facial is largely due to the serums used. If you dermaplane first, the absorption rate of those products increases dramatically. You're basically giving your skin a "fast pass" to all the nutrients. If you were to do it the other way around—facial first, then dermaplane—you'd actually be scraping off a good portion of the expensive products your aesthetician just applied. That's just a waste of time and money.
Achieving that ultra-smooth texture
Beyond the health of your skin, there's the aesthetic side. If you've ever felt like your foundation looks "cakey" no matter what you do, it's probably because of the peach fuzz. By dermaplaning at the start of your session, the subsequent facial steps help soothe the skin, so by the time you leave the spa, your face isn't just hair-free—it's plump, hydrated, and ready for a flawless makeup application the next day.
Can you ever dermaplane after a facial?
While it's rare, you might wonder if there's ever a case for flipping the script. Honestly? Not really. If you do a full facial—complete with steam, massage, and heavy creams—and then try to run a blade over the skin, it's a recipe for disaster. The skin is often too "soft" or slippery from the oils and creams, which makes it much easier to accidentally nick yourself or cause irritation.
Plus, many facials involve some level of heat or stimulation that brings blood flow to the surface. Dermaplaning on top of already stimulated, slightly swollen skin can be really uncomfortable. It's much better to have the "rough" part (the scraping) done first, followed by the "soothing" part (the facial).
Combining dermaplaning with other treatments
If you're looking to level up, many people pair dermaplaning with specific types of facials. Here are a few combos that work really well:
- Hydrating Facials: This is the most common pair. Once the hair is gone, a hyaluronic acid mask feels like a cool drink of water for your face.
- Enzyme Peels: These are "gentle" chemical exfoliants. Since dermaplaning is physical, following it with a light enzyme peel can give you a double-whammy of brightness without being as harsh as a full-on chemical peel.
- LED Light Therapy: Since your skin is "open" and clear after dermaplaning, the light can penetrate effectively to help with collagen production or bacteria killing.
A quick word of caution: If you're planning on a heavy chemical peel, you might want to talk to your pro first. Sometimes doing a deep peel and dermaplaning on the same day is too much for people with sensitive skin. It's always better to ask your aesthetician what they recommend for your specific skin type.
What to expect during the process
If you've never had it done, don't let the idea of a blade scare you. It's not like shaving your legs. The aesthetician uses a small, sterile surgical scalpel held at a 45-degree angle. They use short, feather-like strokes while holding your skin taut.
Most people find it strangely relaxing. There's a satisfying "whispering" sound as the hair and skin come off. It doesn't hurt at all—if it does, something is wrong. After the dermaplaning is finished, they'll usually wipe your face down to remove the loose debris before starting the traditional facial steps like steaming or masking.
Post-treatment care is non-negotiable
Once you've finished your session, your skin is going to be brand new. Literally. You've just removed the protective outer layer, so you need to be careful for the next 48 to 72 hours.
- Sunscreen is your best friend: Your skin is much more susceptible to sunburn right now. If you skip SPF, you're asking for hyperpigmentation.
- Ditch the "actives": Avoid using Retinol, Glycolic Acid, or any harsh scrubs for a few days. Your skin has had enough exfoliation for one week.
- Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate: Drink plenty of water and use a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer to keep that new skin barrier happy.
At-home vs. Professional treatments
You've probably seen those little plastic dermaplaning tools at the drugstore. While they're okay for a quick touch-up of the upper lip, they aren't the same as a professional treatment. A pro uses a much sharper, high-grade blade that can get much closer to the skin without causing "micro-tears."
If you're trying to decide whether to dermaplane before or after facial steps at home, the same rules apply: do the exfoliation first on clean, dry skin, then follow up with your favorite soothing mask or serum. Just be careful not to over-exfoliate. If your skin starts feeling spicy or looking red, back off and give it a break.
The Bottom Line
If you want the best results, always aim to dermaplane before or after facial treatments in that specific order: blade first, pampering second. It maximizes your investment, ensures your skin can actually "breathe," and results in a much smoother finish.
At the end of the day, the goal is to leave the spa (or your bathroom) feeling refreshed, not raw. By clearing away the dead weight before starting the nourishing steps of a facial, you're setting yourself up for that long-lasting glow that makes people ask what your secret is. Just remember to be gentle with your skin afterward, and you'll be hooked on this combo in no time.